Summer books of 2019: Food and drink
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
Tokyo Stories: A Japanese Cookbook, by Tim Anderson, Hardie Grant Publishing, RRP£26/$35
Anderson has always focused on the more informal, warmer aspects of Japanese cooking but this third book is his most self-confident. With more personality, anecdote, lore and phenomenally immersive photograph. It feels like a tour around his considerable brain, guided by infectious enthusiasm.
Mandalay: Recipes and Tales from a Burmese Kitchen, by MiMi Aye, Bloomsbury Absolute, RRP£26/$36
It’s rare to come across a book that opens up an entirely new cuisine to us and Mandalay does exactly that. Burmese recipes that combine the deliverable with the authentic, written with calm authority leavened with personal touches from an engaging personality. Buy and learn.
One More Croissant for the Road , by Felicity Cloake, Mudlark, RRP£14.99
A writer hops on her bike and cycles around France in search of brilliant food. It may sound a slight tale but Cloake imbues it with such personality and wit that it makes you wonder if the rest of us have forgotten that writing about food should be fun. This is pretty much the epitome of the summer book.
Baan: Recipes and Stories from My Thai Home, by Kay Plunkett-Hogge, Pavilion Books, RRP£20
There have been lots of takes on Thai cookery but Plunkett-Hogge brings something new. She grew up in Bangkok and communicates immensely more soul than many others who have tried to encapsulate the country’s tradition. A book to inspire dreams.
Charred: The Complete Guide to Vegetarian Grilling and Barbecue, by Genevieve Taylor, Quadrille Publishing, RRP£16.99
Taylor is becoming the authority on outdoor cooking, with properly thought-through recipes rather than grunted instructions on meathacking and firefighting. I’ve been waiting for a great vegetable book because it’s been so sorely needed and this one is brilliant. An essential purchase.
Tim Hayward is an FT restaurant critic
For a look at the best summer books across genres, go to ft.com/summerbooks2019
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