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Once ‘meat’ can be manufactured convincingly, those who own the IP will want you to consume much more of it
‘I obviously wasn’t going to resist fat strips of crisp grilled pork belly with peperonata and ’nduja aioli, in heroic portions. I mean, who could?’
‘The subtlety, the cleverness, the profound feeling for ingredients — Hall-McCarron has them all’
Some restaurateurs are in better position now than they were before the pandemic
‘As I sat, consuming Neil Forbes’ superb cooking, I realised that most of my Desert Island chefs are Scots’
‘Things will get messy. There will be flirtation, staring out to sea, gossip traded, reputations traduced’
‘Never, ever paint the inside of a dining area blue . . . The fritto misto was actually very good but had trouble asserting itself visually in the gloom’
‘A small but gracefully formed restaurant specialising in Basque cooking. They know exactly what they’re doing so they can do it with élan’
‘The pâté aux herbes tastes as light, fresh and fragrant as Nigel Slater’s window box’
There is no way of knowing how much creatures suffer when they are so physiologically different to us
‘It is lovely to step aside from the noise and confusion of social dining and concentrate on something’
‘Egg and chips will always be a popular idea, but “Trawicki’s Egg and Chips’’ is the greater work and purest evocation’
Tim Hayward selects his best mid-year reads
Why some restaurateurs see the coronavirus pandemic as an opportunity
‘A savagely crisped crust, built by layers of tare and a thick smear of karashi mustard, elevates chicken liver to something rich and rare’
‘There is nothing sexier than quiet self-assurance, particularly in a steak tartare’
Critics of its restaurant ratings say it is elitist, stifles creativity and is simply too French. Yet chefs still crave a star
‘There’s a place for unsolicited tips, but it’s usually on posters in doctors’ offices or in someone’s cubicle in HR’
‘We don’t need formal meetings. We need to chat, to flirt, to gossip . . . and maybe get a little messy’
A new photographic project records the life of the Novogen White, whose eggs are used for vaccine research
‘Yes, I’ll reiterate — langoustine brain and brown-butter hollandaise. Possibly one of the greatest mic-drop moments in my gastronomic experience’
‘Towns across Europe close for three days each year to celebrate a local cheese, shellfish, sausage or fungus’
Boiled, poached or scrambled? Tim Hayward finds his eggs-and-bread soulmate
Mass-manufactured versions of a product can evolve into something entirely ‘other’
‘Nobody wants to say it but the best hope for restaurants’ survival is getting customers to pay more’
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