FT SeriesMen’s fashion special AW23Lose the tie, supersize the collar – and other updates for the new season© Nathaniel GoldbergAutumn menswear in the City of LightThe streets of Paris provide the backdrop for the season’s smartest stylesHow Zegna ‘killed’ the tie – and saved the suitOnce a byword for traditional tailoring, the brand has now reinvented it and seen profits soarHarry Styles was right about oversized collarsThe spearpoint is back — and it’s bigger than ever Gstaad Guy, the man who turned a lifestyle parody into a luxury brandHis Insta alter egos lampoon the ultra wealthy. So why are the people he mocks begging him for more?Enter the ring – the quest for the perfect bagelWhen photographer Dan Martensen failed to find his favourite New York-style in London, he founded a bakery to make the things himselfWhy menswear needs Martine Rose Long an industry favourite, the designer is now hitting the mainstream. She talks clubs, Clarks and being courted by the luxury giantsMore from this SeriesMen’s style goes back to school this autumn23 buys for the college kid in youFashion designer Pierre Mahéo talks tasteThe founder of Officine Générale adores Italian food, his vintage Tank and the WeatherPro appThe cult cool of Japanese lifestyle magazinesGrowing interest in Popeye, Casa Brutus, Go Out et al is bordering on obsessiveWhy brown watches are all the beigeHow an outlier trend went mainstream
