Eight ways to look like a modern groom
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
The groom wore white
A pristine white dinner jacket or ivory-toned lounge suit is a stylish alternative to black tuxedos and morning suits – see Robert Redford’s Jay Gatsby, or film producer Dimitri Rassam’s wedding to Charlotte Casiraghi. “If you’ve got a ’70s shape to it, a full ivory suit or an ivory jacket with a black trouser can be really chic,” says stylist Rose Forde, who recommends French tailoring brand Husbands Paris for a vintage-inspired wedding suit with a contemporary cut (from €1,490).
For a custom-made or bespoke suit, consider a Savile Row tailor such as Anderson & Sheppard or Chiltern Street’s Casely-Hayford; Paul Smith does a cream-coloured linen evening jacket with contrasting black satin lapels that’s perfect for a breezy summer wedding (£1,000). Just don’t go for something that cuts off halfway down your bottom, warns fashion author and consultant Teo van den Broeke. “It’s going to look incredibly unflattering. Ensure the jacket comes down beneath your bottom – it will make you look taller and leaner.”
All white on the night…
Say yes to the waistcoat
A three-piece suit signals timeless elegance and gives a nod to the formality of the event. “It’s a fantastic option for a summer wedding because you still look immaculate when you lose the jacket,” says Oliver Spencer, whose brand Favourbrook is renowned for its eclectic collection of waistcoats (from £190). Opt for a low-cut dove-grey or cream style that will offset the white jacket beautifully. “But make sure that the waistcoat finishes about an inch lower than the trouser waistband,” cautions Spencer. “Never have the shirt showing.”
Don’t shy from the tie
Make a statement with a bold-coloured tie: a midnight-blue silk cravat injects some colour into an otherwise tonal look. The width should be roughly the same as that of your lapel. “Something big and shiny with a massive knot is very estate agent,” says van den Broeke. “You want something that’s got a nice, nipped knot and a fluted shape in a fabric that doesn’t contrast too heavily with the suit.” New & Lingwood (£95) and Charvet (£195, matchesfashion.com) both offer silk ties in appropriate tones.
If, however, you’re going for a tuxedo or something more formal and longer in line, do like Ben Affleck or the stylist Tom Guinness and wear a bow tie. “I’m a huge fan of a vintage bow tie,” says Forde. “They’re just a really easy way to add a little flash of personality.”
Flirt with a coloured shirt
A crisp white shirt is a safe bet – but for a summertime wedding, why not match the occasion with a sky blue? “It should be a very light pastel, almost sugar-coated colour,” says Spencer. “A baby pink, light sky or cream.” Canali (from £220), Turnbull & Asser (from £250) and Budd (from £135) offer a range of colourways and styles in moisture-wicking fabrics including linen. For a shirt with a modern twist, look to Parisian brand Sébline, which offers elegant ruffle-fronted evening shirts and plackets in contrasting colours. Choose a spread or cutaway collar to ensure your tie sits right.
Put your heart in your soles
The right shoes will last you well beyond your wedding day. For a summer suit, opt for a chocolate-brown suede or walnut leather Neapolitan loafer with an almond-shaped toe. “Something that lengthens the foot will, again, make you look more elegant,” says van den Broeke. Crockett & Jones (from £430) and Grenson (£295) both have smart styles with rubber soles, which will provide comfort and good grip on the dancefloor. Though steer clear of the naked ankle. “People definitely need to wear socks,” says Forde.
Give your cuffs some love
Cufflinks are a perfect finishing touch. Specalist makers Deakin & Francis (from £125) and Tateossian (from £99) have styles that run the gamut from elegant mother-of-pearl to onyx faces, while Kiki McDonough offers colourful pairings in pink and duck-egg blue (£250). “The best thing about a wedding is when there’s a suggestion of the couple’s personality,” says Forde.
It’s the little touches
The accessory of the moment is a lapel brooch: match the bride’s dress or tie, or opt for a small floral motif – see actor Paul Mescal’s red rose brooch at the Oscars. If you’re going for a pocket square, don’t just match it to your tie. “It looks naff,” says Spencer. “If it’s a jewel-toned tie, try to keep to a jewel-toned pocket square, and so on. Keep it in the family.”
Invest in the watch
A dress watch will automatically elevate the whole look, says van den Broeke. “Ideally, something very clean and simple, such as a Cartier Tank or a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.” Longines also has a range of sleek dress watches such as the DolceVita (£1,650). “Ideally make sure the strap of the watch is the same colour as your shoes,” he adds.
Model, Nick Fortna at Supa. Hair, Charles Stanley using Hair by Sam McKnight. Make-up, Dan Delgado using 111skin. Digital and retouching, Dan Simm at Triple Five Seven. Special thanks to Wallis Road Studios