Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.
‘For a while longer, I shall be sustaining myself with a glass of red wine and meat’
Put all the gorging behind you with this light seafood salad
Cooking a bird inside another isn’t exactly a doddle. But what it lacks in convenience it more than makes up for in magnificence
Food to titillate your festive taste buds
‘I have to confess that, despite its ubiquity, it is a dish that has passed me by. I have now rectified this error’
‘One of the merits of slow cooking is that you can pretty much forget about it’
A lightly piquant and spiced bit of autumnal comfort
‘Once you have the rice sorted, all you need is a good stock and a bit of courage’
‘The meat is luminously white, finely textured and with a rich but delicate flavour’
‘I jointed the rabbits, gave them a preliminary roasting, then braised them with lots of onions, some pancetta and a parsimonious amount of white wine’
‘Think of it as a kind of quiche with more vegetables, stronger flavours and no pastry’
‘I like to put a little Parmesan in the crumb — a trick that might be frowned on in Italy — to give extra umami to the proceedings’
‘Though usually made from potato, gnocchi are even easier to master using semolina flour’
‘They are made with excellent little packets of white and brown meat, freshly caught in my local supermarket’
‘Cooking tuna to the same melting consistency and cooked all the way through is not so easy. But I think I’ve cracked it’
An early Easter feast of shoulder of lamb with flageolet beans and pommes voisin, followed by ginger custard tart with rhubarb
‘Early March is hardly the peak time for vegetables but leeks are superb at the moment and worth a dish in their own right’
Perfectly paired for Valentine’s night: a steamed fresh fish and a very rich pud
‘This is the sort of dish one returns to like an old friend’
Mushrooms, cloves, shallots . . . who said bread puddings had to be sweet — or made with leftovers?
Robust foods like this and prodigious eating are hardly in fashion
‘If you want to sell a dish, tagging it to the word salad does no harm whatsoever’
The move is a logical response to the skill shortage in most leading world capitals
There used to be at least 20 different ways to prepare sole. But, for the purist, a voluptuous cream sauce is the time-honoured embellishment
Eating in public is an embarrassing — even shameful — act
International Edition