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    Rowley Leigh

    Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

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    • Wednesday, 18 January, 2023
      Food & Drink
      Don’t be afraid of the big bad fish: three special Rowley Leigh recipes

      Mixed fish grill with pimentón, chickpeas and salsa verde, red mullets in paper with skordalia and a Greek salad, and baked hake with mustard, breadcrumbs and tomatoes

    • Wednesday, 14 December, 2022
      Food & Drink
      Orvieto chicken, with fennel, garlic and lemon — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      A heartfelt homage to Alastair Little’s (almost) unimprovable Italian roast dinner

    • Saturday, 6 August, 2022
      Food & Drink
      When sandwiches just won’t do

      Five recipes for an opera picnic as grand as its surroundings

    • Wednesday, 29 June, 2022
      Food & Drink
      Girolle cassoulet — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘If the cep and the morel are the first growths of the mushroom world, the girolle is a super second’

    • Wednesday, 8 June, 2022
      Food & Drink
      Spaghetti alle vongole — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      For when you crave this most elemental of constructions

    • Wednesday, 11 May, 2022
      Life & Arts
      Grilled lobster with herb butter — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘They’re often seen as the ultimate in flash, but nothing beats the sweet flavour of freshly cooked lobster’

    • Wednesday, 20 April, 2022
      Food & Drink
      Celery, prawn and bottarga salad — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      Samuel Pepys was a fan of salted, dried fish roe. And so should you be

    • Saturday, 22 January, 2022
      Food & Drink
      Steamed turbot, winter tomatoes and new season’s olive oil — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      The King of the Sea does not have to be complicated — it will be perfect with hollandaise or even simpler treatment

    • Wednesday, 17 November, 2021
      Food & Drink
      Beetroot salad with shallots, anchovies, chilli and mint — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      Growing, cooking and eating your own beets is a pleasure that cannot be bought

    • Wednesday, 6 October, 2021
      FT SeriesHow to eat and drink it this Christmas
      Plum pudding — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘Rich with sugar, fruit and suet, this is good autumn fare, perfect for when we need some inner warmth’

    • Wednesday, 25 August, 2021
      Food & Drink
      Grilled gilt-head bream, cherry tomatoes and aubergine — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘Wild fish is rare and precious — we should do it justice by cooking it simply’

    • Wednesday, 4 August, 2021
      Food & Drink
      Rice pudding with apricots — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘Served chilled, this summertime twist on the traditional dish will be a hit even on the hottest day’

    • Wednesday, 16 June, 2021
      Food & Drink
      Broad bean and tuna salad — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘Nothing makes the heart swell quite so much as a crop of vegetables that you have practically begged to grow’

    • Wednesday, 12 May, 2021
      Food & Drink
      Cherry and almond tart — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      With its airy frangipane, fresh cherries and biscuity crunch, this French-style tart makes a very cheerful dessert

    • Wednesday, 7 April, 2021
      Food & Drink
      Speck and wild garlic risotto — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘There is no mistaking ramsons. You can smell them a mile off and the pretty little white blossoms stand out like fairy lights in a gloomy wood’

    • Saturday, 20 March, 2021
      FT SeriesFantasy dinner parties
      Rowley Leigh’s fantasy dinner: a Freudian French feast

      The chef and FT food writer tucks into snipe on toast with Samuel Beckett and Thelonious Monk

    • Wednesday, 24 February, 2021
      Food & Drink
      Stuffed squid with celery and orange — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘The usual rules for squid are either cook it very fast or very slowly — this recipe does neither’

    • Wednesday, 3 February, 2021
      Food & Drink
      Grilled langoustines and bisque — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      Too much elaboration and this very special crustacean loses that saline sweetness that makes it so glorious

    • Friday, 8 January, 2021
      ObituaryLe Gavroche
      Albert Roux, chef, 1935-2021

      Founder of Le Gavroche, the first UK restaurant to win three Michelin stars, he taught a generation how to cook

    • Saturday, 12 December, 2020
      Food & Drink
      Rowley Leigh’s turkey-free festive menu

      From mackerel ceviche to pear tarte fine, this Christmas demands 10 days of Saturnalia

    • Wednesday, 18 November, 2020
      Food & Drink
      John Dory boulangère — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      This dish with potatoes and onions has graduated from the baker’s oven to every kitchen in France

    • Wednesday, 21 October, 2020
      Food & Drink
      Mussel and potato risotto — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      An ‘inauthentic’ but exquisite variation on a dish from Puglia

    • Wednesday, 2 September, 2020
      Food & Drink
      Sea bass and plum compote — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘However odd this dish may seem, it represents a beautifully simple approach to cooking’

    • Wednesday, 29 July, 2020
      FT SeriesMeat recipes
      Chicken and spinach with romesco sauce — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘This fricassee is neither authentic nor inauthentic but simply derived by inhabiting a world, a region, through books’

    • Wednesday, 24 June, 2020
      FT MagazineVegetarian recipes
      Broad bean and ricotta pie — a Rowley Leigh recipe

      ‘This dish is a piece of cake. It bakes crisp on the outside but remains soft and pliant in the middle’

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