Jewels to mark the moments that matter

When it comes to giving jewellery, life’s biggest milestones – engagement, parenthood, promotions and retirement – get a lot of airtime. Less so, gifts for the early markers, such as significant birthdays, exam results, graduations and first jobs. But this is a rising market, catering to a generation with well-defined values and priorities.

Once there was a tradition of celebrating the classic milestones with a proven design that had the all-important “forever” quality – think Tiffany & Co’s padlocks, indeed any of Elsa Peretti’s little big-hitter pendants, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ lucky clover-esque Alhambra fine jewellery. But now, as the tide shifts towards self-reward and celebrating more frequently, there’s a new demand for independent, artisanal pieces by jewellers who are doing the heirloom thing their own way.

Younger people regard jewellery much like they do tattoos

“Younger people regard jewellery much like they do tattoos,” says Ruby Beales, jewellery buying manager at Liberty, of the boom in modern “milestone” jewellery. She cites Cece Jewellery, which produces bespoke miniature artworks “that capture the spirit of the individual” on enamel-painted gold pendants and signet rings. A bucolic scene might feature an oak tree, for example, signifying strength, with tiny apples made from ruby birthstone gems. 

These young buyers want possessions to be meaningful, authentic and socially and environmentally conscious. It’s telling, Beales says, that they also come seeking pieces for themselves. Liberty has observed a shift in buying behaviour, “moving away from traditional milestones” in favour of customisable pieces, including charm-based jewels, lockets and narrative-led baubles from designers such as Annoushka, Atelier VM and Marie Lichtenberg that “serve as symbols of personal achievement”.

Cece gold and enamel bespoke ring, from £10,000

Nada Ghazal gold and tsavorite Door of Luck necklace

886 by The Royal Mint gold Bold cuff, £7,445

Elsewhere, Ananya’s 18ct-gold Chakra bracelets in gold with ruby and emerald inlays are popular, perhaps because they echo the same themes and gems found in India’s coming-of-age rituals. For those seeking more universal symbolism, Nada Ghazal’s Doors of Opportunity collection offers talismans such as doors, keyholes and knockers: signs that “don’t belong to anyone”, says Ghazal, “but they resonate with everyone.”

Ghazal grew up in Lebanon, and this first collection since she found refuge for her business in London is inspired by a mysterious turquoise doorway folly in the garden that has become her home. “New beginnings are not about throwing out the old for the new, they’re about cherishing the old and taking it with you through the door,” she says.

When Dominic Jones, whose pieces have been worn by David Bowie and Rihanna, was appointed creative director of 886 By The Royal Mint, a childhood obsession with treasure crystallised in the concept of a “wearable asset”, which found expression in a cuff shaped like an inverted gold bar. In keeping with the pirate tradition of wearing gold earrings (to have some currency on their body if they ended up in a distant place), it has subtle notches at increments along the underside, denoting the value of the sustainably sourced metal by weight. 

“Each piece has a different gauge, so it’s unique,” explains Jones of his modern heirloom, which is much requested by parents and godparents. “You don’t expect they’ll have to use it, but the symbolism of a monetary gift is there – and the sentiment that they have something to fall back on.”

Tiffany & Co gold Tiffany T smile small pendant, £1,075

Cartier gold Juste un Clou bracelet, £3,450

Sophie Bille Brahe gold and diamond Ensemble S ring, $11,000

Mason and Books gold, diamond and blue-chalcedony Milestone necklace, €1,066.96

And the classics still have a place. At Tiffany & Co, Gen Z’s favoured collection is Tiffany T in rose or yellow gold (in the UK, the T-Smile necklace is the generation’s most-purchased item). And Harrods’ director of buying for fine jewellery and watches Beth Hannaway sees many milestones and first paycheques being celebrated with icons such as Cartier’s Juste un Clou bracelet (perhaps a gift for someone nailing their degree?). She’s also seen the rise in “modern heirlooms” such as “Sophie Bille Brahe’s delicate gradient diamonds, along with pendants and rings that can be personalised with a secret message at Suzanne Kalan and Azlee”.

Azlee’s modern fine jewellery is crafted in LA from 18ct recycled gold, and a portion of each sale goes to ocean-preservation charities. The Staircase collection could celebrate taking a step forward – or up – while a custom Fingerprint pendant also ticks the meaningful-experience box. 

Architecture-led Scandinavian label Kinraden’s Oxygen collection, in recycled gold, is a fun choice for those taking major exams (save the “Gasp” earrings for results day), while Diane Kordas’s Pop Art rings – a cult choice for women entering the C-suite – would suit a recent graduate. Meanwhile, McQueen and Marina B alumna Sarah Ysabel Narici, of New York’s Dyne, creates bespoke signet rings embedded with glyphs that can encapsulate each success.

Azlee gold and diamond Staircase 5 ring, $9,780

Diane Kordas rose-gold, diamond and pink-sapphire Boom ring, £3,940

Almasika gold, diamond and enamel Terra Nova globe pendant necklace, £4,219

Sarah Hendler gold, pink-sapphire and emerald Crossroads ring, $2,840

Loquet London’s clear-crystal-faced golden lockets can be filled with collectable charms over time – or embedded with a more personal custom motif. Founder (along with Laura Bailey) and creative director Sheherazade Goldsmith has been through three 21sts with her children in the past three years. When it comes to marking milestones, she proposes three key elements: “Something for who they are, usually a birthstone; something for who they were… a childhood memory, nickname, a song; and something to carry into their future.” (There are expletive charms, too, for anyone who needs reminding that mistakes are inevitable.)

A change of direction, a job move or a major journey calls for Almasika’s Globe pendant, representing a shifting “vantage point” or perhaps Sarah Hendler’s pavé checkerboard Crossroads ring. And there’s something quite moving about Azlee’s Guidance necklace, which consists of a handmade gold chain with two charms, a vintage-inspired, diamond-studded gold compass inscribed with “eternity” – and a light beam. Sometimes it’s not just marking out the road less travelled – it’s knowing there’s a path back home.