The return of the budgie-smuggler

Briefs – the tight, Y-front shaped, thigh-baring alternative to swim trunks, better known as “budgie-smugglers” – are the men’s swimwear equivalent of Marmite. I’ve always thought them a tad unnecessary, but two things have changed my mind. The first was rewatching Ray Winstone’s surprisingly stylish sundried-tomato impression in Jonathan Glazer’s Sexy Beast. The second was discovering Abtany, a young swimwear brand founded by Sourena Ghaffari.

Abtany offers matching swim briefs and swim shorts in beautiful, handpainted abstract patterns, inspired by the colours and textures of historic Persian architecture. The briefs are for swimming and sunbathing; the trunks for socialising. “I prefer briefs for their clean design and swimming functionality,” Ghaffari explains. “But whenever I get out of the pool, I like to slip on a pair of trunks so I can walk through the resort without feeling impolite.”

Swimming in briefs offers a better experience – and cleaner tan lines

The swim brief’s illustrious history is nothing to be ashamed of. Invented by Speedo in 1956 to create a sleek, sporty alternative to classic trunks, the style was worn by the Australian Olympic swimming team that same year during the Melbourne Summer Games. They brought home eight gold medals, propelling this daring new silhouette onto the world stage.

In the liberated 1960s, briefs morphed from sportswear to beachwear, and have since been sported by everyone from Alain Delon and Giorgio Armani to Daniel Craig and Colin Farrell. The appeal waned in the ’90s when board shorts and baggy shapes came in, but they’re now enjoying a resurgence. Plenty of labels are championing them – including Armani, Miu Miu (its “bikini briefs” are also available to men), Dolce & Gabbana (in leopard print), Burberry (in the brand’s house check), Versace and Dsquared2.

Dolce & Gabbana Spandex high-cut swim briefs, £385

Versace elastane-mix La Coupe des Dieux swim briefs, £285

“Swim briefs have always had a certain charm, especially in southern Europe, where beach fashion embraces a sexier aesthetic and bare legs for men are the norm,” says Ingrid Guttormsen, head of design at Stockholm-based essentials brand CDLP. It released its first swimwear collection last year, and has expanded its 2024 offering to include a classic swim brief as well as a box-cut style that offers extra coverage around the hips. 

“The resurgence of swim briefs aligns with the broader acceptance of more daring styles,” she says. “Practically speaking, they are incredibly comfortable, easier to swim in, and eliminate the hassle of excess wet material around your legs.”

Burberry elastane-mix Check swim briefs, £320

Vilebrequin elastane-mix Fitted swim briefs, £95

They also, according to Claus Lindorff, Ron Dorff’s founder and creative director, offer body-confident men a welcome alternative to a classic short. “Our swim brief model is based on the model worn by the Brazilian water polo team in the ’80s. It is wider on the sides, which I think makes the wearer look more elegant while still remaining sexy.” When it comes to patterns or prints, “less is more”, Lindorff says. He recommends “classic masculine mono-colour briefs in black, dark navy or deep green” or else panelled briefs with diagonal wide stripes for a dynamic look.

If jumping into a pair of briefs feels daunting, gateway styles are available in the form of fitted, neatly cropped swim shorts that cover the upper thighs, rather than reach down to the knees. Chief among these are the Man swim shorts from Vilebrequin (I own two pairs so can attest to their trim silhouette), which eliminate the pitfalls of longer-length trunks that can look shapeless when wet. That said, Vilebrequin’s briefs – which, like Ron Dorff’s, cover more of the hips than a classic Speedo style – are more streamlined still.

“Swimming in briefs offers a better experience, and if you’re into tanning, briefs allow for even more sun exposure and cleaner tan lines,” says Ghaffari. “They’re laid-back and stylish, yet exude confidence and easy energy.” If Ray Winstone can work a pair of briefs, then so can you.