This week, we talk tequila. Over the last 20 years, it has become wildly popular, celebrity-endorsed, and top-shelf. Tequila and mezcal are the fastest-growing spirit category in the US; this year, they are set to overtake vodka as the country's best-selling spirit. But the impact on local Mexican farmers and distillers has been damaging, and demand is outpacing supply. Ivy Mix, author of Spirits of Latin America and owner of respected Brooklyn bar Leyenda, talks us through what's at risk – and what can be done. Then, we head to Mexico City to learn the traditional way to drink the spirit from Gina Barbachano, one of the city's top bartenders.

Links:

– Lilah’s magazine piece, ‘How Americans ruined tequila – and the true believers saving it’: https://on-ft-com.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/40QnpXW

– Ivy’s book is called Spirits of Latin America. She’s on Instagram @IvyMix

– Gina is bartender and co-owner of Hanky Panky, in Mexico City. She’s on Instagram @GinaBarbachano

– Ivy poured Lilah Tequila Ocho, Siembra Azul, and Fortaleza, as examples of tequilas doing good work. Gina poured us Caballito Cerero

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Original music by Metaphor Music. Mixing and sound design by Breen Turner and Sam Giovinco.

Additional clips this week copyright Atlantic Records and Universal Music Group.

Read a transcript of this episode on FT.com


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