Models wearing the Emporio Armani SS16 collection
© Catwalking

Even Giorgio Armani has noted the memo about fluidity. At Emporio Armani he was focused on “a new feminine figure” and a “determined form of grace”. Ease is everything in Milan, which has thus far seen a rainbow of colourful silks.

The Emporio Armani woman wore gauzy pastel pink organza and gently cuffed Bermuda shorts. She had borrowed a cement-coloured boyfriend blazer and duster coat. She wore flats, chunky pre-school caramel brown sandals or embellished Aladdin slippers with a pointed toe. Her soft muslin trousers were belted with toffee-coloured leather buckles, an accent that was also used on shoulder strapping.

There were splashy floral metallics, printed on softly tailored blazers, and pretty black-and-white butterfly prints. No pussy-cat bows — the season’s great style statement — here, but instead a gently knotted neck scarf.

Mr Armani’s offering to androgyny — he’s no stranger to a trending look, and besides, he’s been doing it for ever — was a deeply feminine but elegant affair. His hot-fix appliqué floral details were also very of the moment.

Best were the accessories: a smooshy brown bowling bag and hobo sack had a vintage feel — quite a departure for the brand. Armani wanted them to have an “on the road” feel. They were going in the right direction.

For more reports from the shows, go to our fashion weeks page on the FT web app


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