Five new colognes subverting classic scents
We’ll send you a myFT Daily Digest email rounding up the latest Beauty news every morning.
Cologne often claims to be unisex, then turns out to err toward testosterone. Not so Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s genuinely genderless Aqua Celestia (€160), which has the genre’s required citrusy fizz, but with an edge of autumnal crispness. In Oud Eclat (£150), Miller Harris has done a topsy-turvy oud that will appeal even to sceptics, putting the oud up top, with sugar, balsam and nutmeg at its heart. Ormonde Jayne’s Evernia (£160) places oakmoss, often used to add richness to a chypre, at centre stage for a trip down to the woods softened by a floral combination of lily, freesia, orris, violet and Moroccan rose.
Jacques Cavallier Belletrud tore up the rule book to create “deconstructed” perfume for Les Parfums Louis Vuitton’s Les Extraits Collection (£400 each) – Rhapsody, for example, is a play on a classic chypre. And for a new way to discover scent, subscription service Hoohaa distils an abundance of fragrances by indie perfumers into three different “edits”, with subscriptions from £14.95 a month (a 12-month gift subscription is £139). It’s a route to hidden treasures such as Maya Njie’s Les Fleurs (£90), the fragrance equivalent of taking a deep breath of fresh air.