Barnacles & Bones 

During the festival, this Scottish Street Food Award-winning stall takes up residence at Underbelly at Bristo Square, serving shellfish (east coast crab, calamari with squid-ink aïoli), haggis bon bons and hanger steak on fries with caper and parsley gremolata, a dish with a near-cult following. The man at the helm, Hal Prescott, co-founded The Pitt Street Market in Leith, which is also worth a visit at weekends for street-food treasures including buttermilk-fried chicken burgers from The Buffalo Truck and Ròst’s pastrami venison sliders. Underbelly at Bristo Square; barnaclesnbones.com, @eatbnb


The Little Chartroom

The original 18-cover Little Chartroom restaurant
The original 18-cover Little Chartroom restaurant © Amelia & Christian Masters
Stuffed chicken wings with wild garlic, crispy skin and broth
Stuffed chicken wings with wild garlic, crispy skin and broth © Amelia Claudia

This summer is the last chance to dine at this exceptional French-British bistro in its original, intimate (18 covers) setting. Chef owner Roberta Hall-McCarron and her husband, Shaun McCarron (on front-of-house), are moving to a larger site around the corner on Bonnington Road, and opening their second restaurant, a wine bar and eatery called Eleanore, in this wee spot on Albert Place. Summer highlights at The Little Chartroom include grouse with chanterelle and seasonal berries, smoked eel with beetroot, and a strawberry bourbon iced tea savarin with ricotta ice cream. 30-31 Albert Place, 0131-556 6600; thelittlechartroom.com


Cafe St Honoré

Cafe St Honoré offers a daily-changing menu from chef Neil Forbes
Cafe St Honoré offers a daily-changing menu from chef Neil Forbes

Tucked away down a cobbled lane in New Town, this gem of a restaurant offers a daily-changing menu of British fare in a charming Paris-bistro setting, replete with bentwood chairs, chequerboard floors and white linen tablecloths. From award-winning chef Neil Forbes expect everything from Perthshire venison to coq au vin with a “classics menu” of perennial favourites such as ham-hock terrine, native Shetland hogget and lemon tart. 34 North West Thistle Street Lane, 0131-226 2211; cafesthonore.com


Timberyard

Lamb chops, sausage and belly with turnip, garlic and mustard at Timberyard
Lamb chops, sausage and belly with turnip, garlic and mustard at Timberyard

Set in a former props and costume warehouse dating back to the 19th century, this Noma-like fine dining restaurant from Andrew and Lisa Radford (formerly of Atrium and Blue) was something of an Edinburgh game-changer when it opened in 2012. Sourcing ingredients from Scottish artisanal growers, breeders, producers and foragers, the five-course tasting menu promises dishes such as lamb tartare with ramsom and black garlic, confit trout with gooseberry and fennel, and venison with celeriac, cherry and pak choi. 10 Lady Lawson Street, 0131-221 1222; timberyard.co


Ondine

The refurbished Ondine’s menu has a new focus on meat and charcoal-grilled dishes
The refurbished Ondine’s menu has a new focus on meat and charcoal-grilled dishes

Recently refurbished (with the installation of a robata grill), this fêted seafood and shellfish restaurant off the Royal Mile (with wraparound views of Edinburgh) is now focusing more on meat and charcoal-grilled dishes such as Perthshire rib of beef, Isle of Mull scallops and native lobster. Among the classic fish dishes still on the menu, though, are crab crumpet, salt-and-pepper squid tempura, and impeccable Carlingford and Loch Fyne oysters. 2 George IV Bridge, 0131-226 1888; ondinerestaurant.co.uk


Ting Thai Caravan

Ting Thai Caravan’s restaurant near Bristo Square offers authentic, no-frills street food
Ting Thai Caravan’s restaurant near Bristo Square offers authentic, no-frills street food

This Thai street-food venue (a restaurant, not a van) near Bristo Square is a firm favourite among festivalgoers and performers alike, offering no-frills communal dining, fast service and incredibly vibrant, authentic Thai food. Try the classic pad Thai noodles, ped nam pueng (pan-seared honey duck breast) or gaeng pha talay (jungle curry). A second venue has opened on Lothian Road. Takeaway and delivery are available too. 8-9 Teviot Place, 0131-225 9801; tingthai-caravan.com


Spry

Grilled aubergine with basil and coriander seeds at Spry
Grilled aubergine with basil and coriander seeds at Spry

This stylish, understated wine bar and small plate venue, which opened off Leith Walk in 2019, specialises in organic and small batch wines. (The owner, Matt Jackson, used to work behind the bar at Castle Terrace and Timberyard.) The seasonal food options for summer include langoustines, mackerel, a barley risotto made with fresh herbs and flowers, and homemade “burrata” style cheese, made every morning using milk and cream from a local dairy farm. 1 Haddington Place, 0131-557 0005; sprywines.co.uk


The Scran and Scallie

Often named one of the top gastropubs in Scotland, the Scran and Scallie in Stockbridge is run by chef Tom Kitchin (of Michelin-starred The Kitchin) and Dominic Jack (formerly of Castle Terrace). The holder of a Michelin Bib Gourmand (for exceptional fare at a reasonable price), the pub’s Scots language menu dishes up comforting classics such as fish and chips, fish pie and Sunday roasts alongside seasonal fare like rabbit terrine and gazpacho. 1 Comely Bank Row, 0131-332 6281; scranandscallie.com


Borough 

Chef Darren Murray (right) and his wife Aleks at Borough, Edinburgh
Chef Darren Murray (right) and his wife Aleks at Borough, Edinburgh © Till Britze Photography
Mackerel tartare with pickled cucumber, caviar, gooseberries and leek oil
Mackerel tartare with pickled cucumber, caviar, gooseberries and leek oil © Till Britze Photography

This family-run affair from chef Darren Murray and his wife, Aleks (on front-of-house), offers a four-course set menu that changes daily and uses only local-sourced ingredients. The meal kicks off with their standout plate of crudités (featuring the very best vegetables they could find that day), followed by fish and meat courses such as Loch Etive sea trout tartare with black pepper mayonnaise and delicious free-range chicken baked on hay. 50-54 Henderson Street, 0131-554 7655; boroughrestaurant.com


Fortitude

Fortitude serves single-origin coffees alongside sweet treats including cinnamon buns and brioche custard
Fortitude serves single-origin coffees alongside sweet treats including cinnamon buns and brioche custard

Where to find the best coffee in Edinburgh? At either branch of this speciality coffee roaster in Stockbridge or New Town (next to the Scottish National Portrait Gallery). Go for their single-origin coffees. Stay for their sweet treats (brioche custard and cinnamon buns, brownies) and brunch favourites including the best grilled cheese sandwiches and baked French toast. 66 Hamilton Place and 3c York Place; fortitudecoffee.com


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